Archive for February, 2007
Thursday, February 22nd, 2007
72km Rounde-Point - Foum Zguid
Breakfast this morning was thanks to the campsite owners, since our supplies were running low. To our surprise, it was well worth it: scambled eggs in a tagine with some flat bread to accompany the usual jam and butter, freshly squeezed orange juice, and the required coffee. Eventually we got underway, after chatting with the other campers and taking a few pics. We started our journey down the road.
Knowing that we needed supplies we stopped at the next town to seek out a store of some type. Getting to the town and not seeing an obvious shop we asked a few locals. One got up from his place on the ground – Moroccan men in small villages seem to gather in groups by the road, just sitting and watching – who led us from shop to shop trying to either wake up or find the keeper to serve us. After the third or fourth shop, pounding on various doors and asking people, he was able to get the shopkeeper to open early. A bit odd for 10:30 in the morning. Winding our way back out of the small town we were on our way again.
The scenery on this stretch was wonderful, large canyons as we weaved our way back and forward from one side of the river to the other. River would be a loose term here, since it probably only flows when there is a heavy rain shower. We’ve been noticing that most of the caravan traffic is going in the other direction, obviously coming down the coast from Tanger to Agadir and across this stretch of road before crossing to the desert towns of Zagora and Merzouga. Foum Zguid was a welcome sign, as the wind returned to become an annoyance in the afternoon. We struggle to remember the last time we had a really good tailwind!
1 Comment » - Posted in Cycling Trips, Journal Entries, Morocco by andrew
Wednesday, February 21st, 2007
A very windy 59km
The saying “be careful what you wish for” seemed appropriate today, since we spent the entire day before wishing for the rain to stop and in its place we got a day full of wind. The strong breezes started rattling our tent in the early dawn and after just a couple hours on the road we’d lost count of how many times we were swept from one side of the pavement to the other, unable to hold our ground as they pushed us from right to left.
We quickly went through our stash of nuts and chocolate as we tried to keep up our energy levels. Occasionally the road would turn a corner and we’d catch a tail wind, which doubled our speed instantly, if only for a few seconds at a time. Most of the time we were frustrated and really did not make the most of the beautiful groups of palm trees alongside the road and the rugged mountains we reached in the afternoon. It was a big relief to finally reach a campsite in the late afternoon, where we collapsed into our tent exhausted.
1 Comment » - Posted in Cycling Trips, Journal Entries, Morocco by andrew
Tuesday, February 20th, 2007
15km to nowhere….
The day started out promising enough, with clearing skies after a bit of rain in the early hours of the morning. We weren’t on the road long though, heading away from Agdz, when dark clouds started to thunder around us, complete with the occasional bolt of lightening.
It’s a bit worrying to be out riding on two big pieces of metal! But we took comfort from the fact that the worst of the storm was still some distance away and we weren’t the tallest things around.
We tried to press on in the wind and rain but when your shoes start making a wet squishy sound it’s time to find a ‘plan b’. We sheltered under some palm trees for a few minutes but soon drops of water started hitting our heads so we decided to pitch the tent.
Three hours later we were still sitting inside our tent, waiting for the rain to stop. By this time it was pretty clear that we weren’t going far so we moved the tent a few meters to hide ourselves better from the nearby road and settled in for an afternoon of reading. Happily for us we’d stocked up on food and water in Agdz so we were pretty comfortable, if a little frustrated at losing a day. Finally around 4pm the rain stopped and we did at least enjoy a beautiful sunset.
No Comments » - Posted in Cycling Trips, Journal Entries, Morocco by friedel
Monday, February 19th, 2007
42km Tamezmoute – Agdz
We rose early to the beautiful sight of the sun lighting up the Draa Valley and turning the sky a pale pink. After a quick breakfast we rolled out, long before the women showed up to do their washing and with only the keenest children out on their bikes, mostly heading to school. The ride into Agdz was easy and by lunchtime we were happily camped in the middle of an oasis.
Compared with our campsite of the night before, the Kasbah de la Palmeraie was a good find and we recommend it to other travellers. We spent the afternoon cleaning our bikes – only the second time this trip – and going for a swim in the pool. When we returned from our swim we were a little alarmed to find water around the tent. We had been given a spot next to an irrigation channel for nearby wheat fields and someone had forgotten to block off the channel running past our front door, but thankfully they closed the gap before our tent and bags were sent floating. The day’s last adventure involved bringing home eggs from the nearest store.
For all you creative thinkers out there, what is the best way to transport eggs, which are sold loose here, down a bumpy, potholed road? The best answer to our email will win a postcard from the country of your choice!*
We can already tell you that just putting them in a pannier doesn’t work and neither does the mesh pocket on the side of our handlebar bag. Friedel tried cycling one-handed, holding the eggs carefully in their plastic bag with the other hand, and got three out of four back to the campsite safely, although there was a near miss with a donkey pulling a cart. We have yet to buy eggs and not break at least one before we manage to boil them.
*Provided we actually cycle through it 
1 Comment » - Posted in Cycling Trips, Journal Entries, Morocco by andrew
Sunday, February 18th, 2007
67km Zagora – Tamezmoute
It’s always hard to leave good friends behind and we were very reluctant to carry on after such a good time in Zagora. Over the past 10 days we enjoyed a return visit to the grand dunes of Chegaga, an afternoon in Ali’s garden and best of all just sitting with our friend Brahim in front of his shop on the main street of Zagora and “watching television”, voyeurs peeking in on the world passing by in front of us.
We were also treated to so many wonderful meals which we are sure will have us drooling in our dreams for weeks.
A big thank you to Brahim, his brother Mohammed, cousin Mohammed, Hamzou the shopkeeper and all the guides who worked with us. You made our stay one that we will remember for a very long time. (more…)
