SOUTHEAST ASIA: Everyone rides a bike here and the food is fantastic. It's a cyclist's paradise.KYRGYZSTAN: Cycle the shores of Lake Issyk-Kol and then head for remote alpine passesSYRIA: Ride your bike up to the front gate of amazing archaeological ruins in the Middle East.
Welcome
We blog about bicycle touring, with practical bike touring tips and journals from our world bike trip. We also share tidbits of an expat life in Holland. More about us...
Posted on March 10th, 2010

In 2006, Marija Kozin left her home in Slovenia and set out on a solo journey towards China by bicycle. When she reached Beijing, Marija turned around and cycled home again. During her 30 month trip, she covered some of the toughest routes in the world of bike touring. read more...

 
icon for podpress  Standard Podcast [25:23m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download
 

Archive for February, 2009

Rain, rain. Go away.

Posted February 24th, 2009
Bookmark and Share

371km Marahau to Greymouth

After the rainGetting soaked by the rain is almost a rite of passage when cycling New Zealand.

We’d heard all about the legendary wet weather, especially on the west coast of the South Island. But we didn’t really appreciate what we were in for until we found ourselves dripping wet for the fifth day in a row, soaked by just the latest downpour to come steaming our way.

We did a quick calculation. Let’s see. That’s 11 days of cycling so far in New Zealand. Minus 2 sunny days and 1 overcast day. That leaves 8 days of rain. It hadn’t been all damp, of course. Every so often a patch of blue sky would appear or maybe even a brief ray of sun but it always disappeared too quickly, leaving behind a steady stream of water that slowly soaked through our clothes, leaving us looking, well, like the proverbial drowned rat. (more…)

About that cargo ship….

Posted February 18th, 2009
Bookmark and Share

dsc_6858.jpgWay back when we landed in Napier, we promised you more details about 5 days on board a freighter between Australia and New Zealand. After several unsuccessful attempts at summarizing our journals (even the short version started running to three pages), we decided to stick to the facts.

Name of Ship: CMA-CGM Utrillo
Length:
196 meters (small for a cargo ship)
Made in: China in 1999
Crew:
25 men, made up of mostly Romanian officers and Filipino crew
Our route:
From Melbourne, Australia to  Napier, New Zealand. (The ship was carrying on to Panama, the U.S. and back to Europe)
In our cabin: Double bed. Sofa. Coffee table. Desk and chair. Wardrobe. Bar fridge. Ensuite bathroom.
Facilities: Ping pong table, library, swimming pool (filled with sea water), gym and TV room with a DVD player and plenty of movies.
Our fare: €500 per person
Other passengers:
Christiane, a 72-year-old French woman, going around the world in 80 days.
Best moment: It’s a tie. Was it the evening BBQ on the back deck with the crew, singing with the sailors, dsc_6844.jpgdrinking beer and watching a pod of dolphins swim alongside? Or maybe it was going up to the bridge at 5:30am on our last day to watch the harbour pilot come aboard and guide us into Napier as the sun rose.
Daily routine: Wake up at 6:30am. Breakfast at 7am. Ping pong until 9am. Then relax. Maybe walk around the deck or go up to the bridge to check our position. Eat lunch at noon, followed by more ping pong and relaxing. Evening meal at 7pm. Watch a film or go for a swim. Go to sleep at 11pm.
Typical meal: Hearty and meaty. Potatoes, potatoes, potatoes along with a large serving of meat, followed by desert. Salad, bread and a bottle of wine were always on the table, along with fresh garlic for the Romanians, who enjoy eating whole, raw cloves. For snacking between meals, there was always plenty of coffee, tea, water and fresh fruit.
Seasickness:
None. Not even any queasiness. Our crossing was very smooth.
Fascinating fact:
It currently costs $60,000 a day for the 80 tons of fuel to run a small cargo ship. And that’s with relatively low fuel prices! The overall daily running cost for the ship is about $100,000.
Sobering fact: Be very careful when walking on deck to not fall off. You’re done for if you slip into the water because it’s very unlikely anyone will hear or see you. For this reason, don’t go out in bad weather. This advice was given to us by the first mate.
What we learned:
Sailors are quite gentlemanly, despite our rougher impression before we took this trip. We also were struck by just how much stuff we humans move around the world. Until you watch the volumes going through a port like Melbourne, you can’t quite imagine it.
Next time we’d take: Something to share with the crew.
Rating: We give our trip 9/10 points. The overall experience was far more interesting and relaxing than flying. We could take on as much baggage as we liked (100kg/person is the nominal limit). All the sailors were very polite, helpful and friendly. We found the experience of being at sea relaxing and the days flew by quickly. We only deduct points for the slightly heavy meals and because we realise that if we had encountered rough seas, we could have been fairly miserable. Overall we loved our time on board. Given enough cash and time, we’re not sure we’d ever return to the airport. We far prefer the seaport.

Out in the wilds

Posted February 16th, 2009
Bookmark and Share

339km Napier to Wellington

Admiring the viewThe quiet roads can be really quiet sometimes. That’s why we take them after all. No cars means heaven to a cyclist. But while we expected long spells of isolation in places like Kyrgyzstan, we didn’t plan on quite so much of it in New Zealand.

We certainly got it though. Our route from Napier to Wellington took us down all the little gray roads on our map, so small they didn’t seem to have a number. Cars could be literally counted on our fingers. Shops were at least a day apart – sometimes more – and for the first time in ages we really wondered where we were going to get water. We ended up knocking on doors and people like ‘Old Jim’ (as he was introduced by his neighbour) came to our rescue more than once. (more…)

Show 23: Epic trips and cargo ships

Posted February 9th, 2009
Bookmark and Share

DSC_6932.JPGA successful cargo ship voyage (no rough seas and a wonderful crew) brought us to Napier, New Zealand this morning. There’s so much to tell but as we get our thoughts together, here’s our latest podcast. It includes a few reflections on Australia, an interview with Chris as he sets off on a huge bicycle trip and a tip or two on how to travel by cargo ship… if you’re tempted! It’s far less stressful than airport travel, if our first experience is anything to go by. We’ve put some handy information on travelling by freighter in our Resources section.

 
icon for podpress  Standard Podcast [27:58m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

The Tourist Dash

Posted February 2nd, 2009
Bookmark and Share

The Opera House seen from a ferryNo sooner has our plane touched down in Sydney than it feels like it’s taking off again. Our six days on Australia’s east coast go by in a flash as we do the tourist dash between the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, from the historic Rocks district to flashy Darling Harbour and countless neighbourhoods all around the city.

We buy a bus, train and ferry pass to do all this running around and when the cashier asks for A$125 in return, we can’t help but miss our trusty, economical bicycles. This backpacking malarky gets expensive quickly! Either that or travelling by bike has just made us very, very cheap indeed. Since we still tend to compare everything to the cost of a 50-cent iced coffee in Thailand, maybe it’s the latter.

But really, we can’t complain and we certainly can’t feel hard done by when we arrive at Dave and Nancy’s flat. They quickly get added to our list of the world’s most wonderful people (even if Dave does tease us about putting everything ‘on the invoice’) and during our visit we’re treated to many fantastic meals and cycling chatter. Dave also points out that we’re lucky enough to be staying in a flat with an Ocean View, which is mostly true, if you squint and look really hard at the dip in the landscape on a clear day. (more…)