10 Questions: Cycling In Indonesia

Arriving in Chiang MaiChris & Liz cycled across Indonesia in 2010, as part of their bicycle tour from New Zealand home to the UK.

When they arrived in Indonesia from Australia, their first impression was of a country full of sensations.

“To demonstrate the brain-overload experienced daily, here is what Indonesia is like: lush green hot hot hot traditional ‘hello mister’ fans scooters rice sweat black tea sweeping satay ayam beautiful hand crafts innovative food markets rich mosquitoes rubbish stray dogs blue warm water…” they wrote on their Bike About website.

In this edition of 10 questions, Liz and Chris share the highlights and daily routines of bike touring in Indonesia, including a diverse landscape and being adopted by local families for an evening.

1. How would you describe the sensation of cycling in Indonesia, for someone who hasn’t been there?

Indonesia is a big country made up of many different islands. We cycled in Bali, Lombok and Java during our 2 months. Depending on where you are, you can have busy roads and pollution or quiet country lanes with paddy fields on each side. Wherever you are, the country is full of smiles.

Smiling Faces

2. Was there one stretch or section of your trip that was really wonderful cycling?

The best part was going to Lovina from Ubud. It involves a big climb but at the top we got given free oranges in a topical rain shower and had a beautiful ride down the hill into Lovina. We did not have time to cycle much in Lombok but we reckon that would have been really beautiful and quiet. There is a lot of exploring to do off the bikes too. We tended to cycle to places and then explore the local area: temples, trekking, volcanoes, ballet and chilling with the locals.

matahari beach liz1

3. Traffic in Indonesia is sometimes described as hectic or even aggressive. What was your experience?

IMG_4860We describe the traffic in Indonesia as 360 degree traffic. Java was the busiest but Bali and Lombok were not so bad, especially away from main roads. Any previous road rules you may have learned really don’t apply so be patient, watch and learn. Overall, common sense does prevail.

The traffic is made up of trucks, demon driving coaches, bemos and scooters, old rickshaws and slow bicycles, as well as pedestrians and chickens. Everyone beeps when they overtake. This can seem aggressive but it is to tell the person ahead that they are overtaking. It is a free-for-all and anything goes, however if you stay away from the main highways it can be very pleasant and enjoyable.

4. How do local people view cyclists?

In Java we were a constant curiosity and often had our photos taken in the small ‘warungs’ restaurants by the side of the road. Where there are more tourists there is less interest, especially in Bali where companies offer bike tours. Many local people use bikes to get around but also to carry rice and crops on the back of their bikes. Travelling through villages, we were greeted regularly with shouts of “Hello mistairrrr!” and big smiles. The Indonesian people really are welcoming and friendly to visitors.

5. Where did you sleep?

We spent most of our time in guest houses or hotels, which you could find in most towns. We also camped in police stations, football pitches, outside shops and even got invited to sleep in peoples houses. Camping is a strange concept and people were worried we would get cold or the tent would leak when it rained.

Typical Indonesian guesthouseMost of the accommodation was very clean. The cheap end was often basic with squat toilets and a bucket to wash with. The mid to high end tended to have more western facilities and showers. Prices varied from 50,000 Rupiah (cheapest) to 350,000 Rupiah for air conditioning, big room, bath, hot water, swimming pool and breakfast.

6. What is the food like, and could you travel in Indonesia without a stove?

We were never far from food. We loved the local food, mostly rice based and we would hunt out the cheapest Nasi Goreng for about 10,000 Rupiah (their national dish) or eat chicken satay by the side of the road. You pay more in the posh or western restaurants as you get good service, a wider choice and fancy presentation. You don’t really need to take a stove as there is always a warung (basic restaurant) in most towns. We did cook a bit to start with but food went off quickly in the heat and it never tasted as good as the locals made it. It was nice, however, to have the stove to snack on instant noodles and to make tea and coffee at a fraction of the price that you buy it for. Indonesian coffee is Chris’s favourite so far.

7. You took ferries and trains with your bikes. How easy is it to get your bike on public transport?

Taking the bikes on the ferries between the islands was easy. They have a rate for bicycles and you leave your bike in the bottom of the ferry with the cars. It’s useful to have some straps or bungees to secure the bikes. We never had a problem with stuff being stolen but took our valuables with us on deck. For the long ferry (28 hours) Java to Singapore the bikes and all our stuff were in the same communal room, we did not pay extra for this and there were no issues with the bikes.

We only took one train, it was quite easy once we worked out which section of the train the bikes needed to go on. You pay extra for the bikes but there did not seem to be a set price. We managed to barter for this and did hear of some people not even paying. You can get different class trains. We took first class; much more expensive but the only available one at the time we wanted to go.

IMG_4945

8. What is your most treasured memory of cycling in Indonesia?

We were looking for a place to camp and since we were surrounded by paddy fields that were no good for camping, we took a trip down a side road. Eventually we got the message across that we wanted somewhere to put our tent for the night. A kind woman said we could camp in her garden but the rest of the villagers were worried about us getting cold and wet. We were whisked into the house and told that we could sleep there.

More and more people turned up until it seemed half the village was there, wanting to see who the people on bikes were. Liz was ushered off to have a shower and Chris set about cooking some food. He soon had an audience of over 30 people watching him cook rice and vegetables. It was like live Masterchef. “Better than TV,” said one of the men! All the children sat cross legged on the floor watching his every move.

It was very funny because the rice took ages to cook and Chris kept trying it and then putting it back on the stove. Rice is eaten everyday here, at most meals, so they were watching with interest. One lady seemed to be telling Chris how to cook it. Chris replied wittily ‘Nasi Goreng English’ and she seemed happy with that but she did throw out the rest of our long beans as she said they were old. Another lady in the morning gave us fresh beans before we left.

IMG_5057

9. And the biggest challenge you faced?

There was not one big challenge that stood out. Generally Indonesia is an easy and lovely place to travel. We learnt some of the local language and that was really useful. In the non-tourist areas, hardly anyone spoke English. We did get annoyed with the traffic in Java but eventually got used to it. In Jakarta, the capital, Chris had to convince a prostitute that he was already taken.

10. What’s one essential tip that everyone considering a bike tour in Indonesia needs to know?

You only get a one month visa on arrival. Plan your route so you can be in the right place to extend your visa and explore more. There is so much to see. Go with the flow!

Thanks to Chris & Liz for answering 10 questions and providing the photos.

If you’d like to answer 10 questions about a favourite cycling destination, read the guidelines and then get in touch.

Comments

  1. Ignaz-Philip Dama L.
    27th May 2011 at 6:30 pm #

    Dear Chris and Liz,

    My eyes tear happily and my heart shivers joyfully while reading your story about passing Indonesia, specially Java Island.

    I’m a local bike tourist, not yet finished exploring Java, the Island where I was born. Everything of Java and the people along the road that you described do remind me a lot of my own experiences.

    The year 2010, when you passed it, was the year I explored the whole are of the provinces of Banten and West Java. I’ve heard people mentioning that some fully loaded bike tourists had passed before me. It feels great to know that you are some of them. Superb.

    Wish you all the bests for your next trips and journeys; and a TAILWIND, of course! 🙂

    Hati-hati di perjalanan, dan salam sukses selalu!
    Dama

    • Sandra Paramayuda
      9th December 2011 at 4:23 am #

      Dama,

      Any favorite route in Java? I am planning to go visit my family in Jakarta soon. Would love to bring my road bike and do some rural bike ride including maybe climb some mountain.

      Thank You!
      Sandra

      • Ignaz-Philip Dama HNAL
        11th December 2011 at 6:57 am #

        There are many. When you have arrived, you can ask local bikers about that. If you still need my help, contact me b [email protected].

      • joe
        5th January 2012 at 5:45 am #

        Pelabahn Ratu to Pangandaran along the coast was the best part of my tour across Java. If you look at the Nelles map you just follow the road closest to the coast. Some tough days but completely wonderful·

        • Downhill Dave
          25th August 2015 at 6:26 am #

          The ride from Pelab uhan Ratu is indeed very nice and hardly used. The road is being cemented now and should be mainly smooth. Allow 5 days from Pelabuhan Ratu.
          Stay in Ujung Genteng, Sindang Barang, Pamenpeuk and finally Pengandaran.
          Another 2 days will get you into Jogya from Pengandaran.
          If you have time stay a day in Rancabuaya but not on the weekend. Probably the most delightful spot on the entire ride. It is between Sindangbarang and Pamenpeuk and well worth turning off the main road for.

  2. Liz Wilton
    22nd October 2011 at 12:31 pm #

    You have a wonderful country, thank you for you kind words.
    Chris and Liz

  3. Jeff
    12th February 2012 at 4:10 pm #

    Good read! I lived in Jakarta for 4 years and remember much of the same types of hospitality and warmth you describe. We would be mountain biking and get lost and look for trails back and the locals would always give us the main road to “help” us out. No, no! we want to take a footpath or motorcycle trail. Always fun.
    I have a website and group of active cyclists which I link above. If anyone wants to ask for help on a short trip or a long tour they are welcome to use the resource. All advice is free!

    Jeff

    • Daniel
      4th January 2014 at 1:20 pm #

      Hi!
      Seems like a very nice trip, thanks Chris and Liz for the information!
      I would like to go on a bike road trip during February and March, but as I decided quite spontaneous I don’t have anything planned by now. I tought of eventually fly to Jakarta and make my way going direction Lombok, and fly back from Bali!
      Jeff, would you have any recommentation, or information on resources I can use?
      I am not sure the bike I should use, could it be a good idea and possible to buy/rent one in Jakarta and to give it back / sell it on Bali?
      Thanks for any hints! Daniel

    • Antony
      31st October 2016 at 9:13 am #

      Dear Jeff

      Hope you’re still in one piece?
      Would love to go cycling around Bali, but are too afraid.
      Done the tours but would prefer to ride independently.
      Any suggestions?
      Where’s your website?

      All the best
      Antony

  4. chris
    26th May 2012 at 8:48 pm #

    would love to bring my Raleigh Chopper MKII over from the UK, I live in Indonesia,,, it costs so much to use the likes of UPS or ParcelForce,,, how to get it here? if I fly with a baggage allowance of just 23KG,,, I would have to pay $13 per KG over weight, then customs? will want to charge me for “importing ” my own bike ?

    • Jeff
      29th May 2012 at 7:35 pm #

      There should be no import on a bicycle if it is obviously used. Bringing in a new bike would cause problems but a used bike should be ok. I have many people who have come in with “lightly” used bikes that haven’t had problems.

  5. Ken
    1st June 2012 at 4:10 pm #

    Chris & Liz – thank you for such wonderful information. I am planning a similar trip – but I want to travel with flying. How did you get from New Zealand to Indonesia. Did youi fly? If not what boats did you take and how was this organised?

  6. Chris Leakey
    1st June 2012 at 5:39 pm #

    Hi Ken

    We wanted to do the same but it does take quite a lot more planning and effort and potential cost. We flew from NZ to OZ then from OZ to Bali. Not to fly your options are.
    Check out the freighter companies in the area, they are expensive but do opperate.
    Sail – boats do move between the islands and you can sometimes get passage as crew. There are websites where you can sign up for this or you can hang about at the marines for months making friends until you get lucky. Making freinds and asking people is a big help with this Rob Lillwall got some really random boat rides on his trip just through persistance. I also know Oli Broom manged to do Indo to OZ by boat on a cattle ship. If you do sail make sure you get the right time of year or a huge boat. They is a hurrican seasson!
    Have fun and let us know how you get on!
    Check out this page http://www.bikeabout.co.uk/countries/indonesia/index.shtml for some more info on our site. Hope to get our Indo Langauge pod cast up there eventually!

  7. Will
    16th November 2013 at 7:56 pm #

    I love to hear that someone biked here its not many how will do it. I have been here for 11 years and the smiles are so important to me, if you get here next time try east indo its a anther world

  8. Daniel
    18th January 2014 at 7:24 pm #

    Hi Chris and Liz!
    I already posted a few weeks ago. I would go on a bike road trip to indonesia in february, starting from Yogyakarta and going through the east of Java heading towards Lombok.
    Do you have any recommendation on the route. I want to avoid using main roads, because of going on alternative roads would be nice, and quieter because of traffic.
    If you have any hints, I would be very thankful! Daniel

    • Chris Leakry
      21st January 2014 at 10:11 pm #

      Hi Daniel it really depends on time, we took more main roads as we had limited time on our visa. Your best bet is order a paper map work out how much distance you want to cover each day. Decided if you want to camp or hotel. Decide what you want to see. Then pick smallest roads that allows you to do all the above.

      This is our route and stuff we like Enjoy.

      http://www.bikeabout.co.uk/countries/indonesia/index.shtml

      I think the velomads http://www.velomad.com/ did more small rds than us.

      • Daniel
        23rd January 2014 at 7:47 pm #

        Thanks Chris!
        I changed my plans, as I will start in Bali and going to Lombok and Flores from there..
        What maps were you using then, some road map you bought right there, that covers small – but still ridable – roads?
        Best wishes from Europe!
        Daniel

  9. Damien
    1st March 2014 at 12:55 am #

    Hi Daniel
    I can recommend the Reise Maps World Mapping Project Series, available from Omnimaps. They have a 1;800,000 scale map for the Lesser Sunsa Islands (covering Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Sumba, Flores, Timor, Alor & Wetar). Based on my experience cycling Sulawesi, the Reise maps are accurate and use actual town, rather than the district names used by Google and some other maps. Reise maps also give a fairly good idea of likely road conditions sealed, unsealed etc and alternatives from the “main” highways. Alternative routes though, are pretty limited in the Lesser Sundas once off Bali and Lombok.
    Good luck with your tour.
    Damien

  10. fairuz
    17th September 2014 at 2:56 pm #

    what a lovely things to read! Massive thank you for your appeciate for indonesia. I am indonesian but I don’t have the time for travel so I don’t know what my country really are. I love how you describe indonesia in those words. Thank you

  11. Oliver
    16th October 2016 at 12:56 pm #

    Hi there,

    My father and I are looking to do a cycle tour somewhere in Indonesia. It would be maximum 3 weeks or 450 kilometres, and since we are both a bit out of shape, it wouldn’t be anything too hilly. We also would like to take a train or ferry somewhere (if required) as opposed to a plane. We live in Jakarta, and would preferably like to go to around Sumatra or Java.

    Does anyone know any routes that meet 1 or more of the specifications listed? If yes, please tell me as soon as possible! That would be so helpful!

    Thanks very much!

  12. off white clothing
    24th July 2022 at 4:02 am #

    I wish to show some thanks to you just for bailing me out of this particular setting. Because of browsing throughout the internet and meeting methods which are not helpful, I assumed my entire life was done. Being alive without the strategies to the issues you’ve solved by way of the post is a serious case, and ones which might have negatively damaged my career if I hadn’t noticed your blog. The skills and kindness in playing with every part was crucial. I’m not sure what I would’ve done if I hadn’t come upon such a solution like this. I can at this moment relish my future. Thanks very much for the high quality and amazing guide. I won’t hesitate to endorse your blog to anyone who requires guide on this subject matter.

  13. a bathing ape
    14th August 2022 at 9:56 pm #

    I simply had to thank you so much once again. I am not sure the things I would have tried without those information documented by you directly on such a problem. Completely was a very scary condition in my view, but encountering your expert way you solved the issue made me to leap for fulfillment. Now i’m thankful for your assistance and even hope that you find out what a powerful job you have been doing instructing others thru your site. I’m certain you’ve never encountered any of us.

  14. yeezy
    18th August 2022 at 11:41 pm #

    I intended to put you one tiny remark to be able to thank you very much once again for all the unique techniques you have provided above. It’s so open-handed of you in giving extensively exactly what most people would’ve offered as an ebook in making some profit for themselves, especially given that you might have tried it in case you considered necessary. The solutions in addition worked to become a good way to comprehend some people have the same dreams just like my own to understand a lot more with regards to this issue. I’m certain there are a lot more fun occasions ahead for those who scan your website.

  15. curry 8
    18th August 2022 at 11:42 pm #

    I have to voice my appreciation for your kindness giving support to persons that have the need for assistance with your topic. Your very own dedication to getting the solution throughout turned out to be unbelievably effective and have continuously empowered somebody just like me to attain their ambitions. The helpful help implies a great deal a person like me and somewhat more to my fellow workers. Thanks a lot; from everyone of us.

  16. cheap curry 8
    20th August 2022 at 8:14 am #

    I want to voice my affection for your kind-heartedness in support of men and women who really need guidance on this one concept. Your personal commitment to passing the solution all over became exceptionally valuable and have without exception made girls much like me to get to their ambitions. Your valuable hints and tips entails much a person like me and even more to my fellow workers. Warm regards; from everyone of us.

  17. supreme clothing
    20th August 2022 at 8:25 am #

    I precisely desired to thank you so much again. I do not know what I would’ve achieved in the absence of the entire recommendations revealed by you over such a area of interest. It had become a very fearsome crisis for me personally, but observing the skilled approach you dealt with the issue forced me to cry with delight. I will be happier for your advice and in addition wish you recognize what an amazing job your are putting in educating others by way of your website. More than likely you have never encountered all of us.

  18. goyard outlet
    24th October 2022 at 4:02 pm #

    I definitely wanted to jot down a small word so as to appreciate you for these marvelous recommendations you are showing at this site. My extended internet look up has at the end of the day been honored with really good facts and techniques to go over with my company. I ‘d express that we visitors are undeniably fortunate to live in a very good site with many perfect individuals with interesting basics. I feel extremely happy to have seen your weblog and look forward to so many more pleasurable times reading here. Thank you once more for everything.

  19. off white outlet
    24th October 2022 at 4:07 pm #

    I needed to draft you a tiny observation so as to thank you over again considering the stunning views you’ve discussed above. It is certainly tremendously open-handed of you to supply easily exactly what a number of people would’ve made available as an e book in making some money on their own, primarily given that you could have done it if you ever decided. Those strategies additionally served to become great way to be sure that many people have a similar eagerness similar to my own to find out much more with respect to this matter. I am sure there are lots of more enjoyable times ahead for people who looked over your website.

  20. jordan 6
    28th October 2022 at 6:04 am #

    My spouse and i felt very peaceful Raymond could deal with his investigation through the entire ideas he had from your very own web site. It’s not at all simplistic to simply possibly be handing out tips and tricks that many people today have been trying to sell. So we do understand we’ve got you to be grateful to for that. The most important explanations you made, the straightforward blog navigation, the relationships your site make it possible to foster – it is everything exceptional, and it is assisting our son and the family consider that this topic is exciting, and that is incredibly pressing. Many thanks for all the pieces!

  21. supreme
    28th October 2022 at 6:05 am #

    I must convey my admiration for your kindness in support of persons who need assistance with your area of interest. Your personal dedication to passing the solution all-around appears to be rather powerful and has permitted people much like me to realize their endeavors. The insightful guidelines signifies a lot a person like me and far more to my mates. Regards; from all of us.

  22. kyrie 5
    1st November 2022 at 5:08 am #

    I simply wanted to say thanks all over again. I do not know the things I would’ve done in the absence of the tricks provided by you about that situation. It had become a troublesome issue in my circumstances, however , taking note of this skilled way you handled it took me to cry over gladness. I will be grateful for this help and in addition pray you really know what a powerful job that you’re carrying out educating people today through the use of a site. More than likely you’ve never met any of us.

  23. site
    2nd November 2022 at 1:23 am #

    This is a topic which is near to my heart… Many thanks! Exactly where can I find the contact details for questions?

  24. bape
    2nd November 2022 at 4:49 am #

    Needed to write you this bit of word to say thank you over again for your personal gorgeous basics you have shown at this time. It has been so strangely generous with you giving unhampered all a lot of people could have sold as an e-book to generate some money on their own, even more so since you could possibly have tried it if you desired. Those ideas in addition served to be the great way to be certain that other people have the identical eagerness like my own to grasp somewhat more on the subject of this condition. Certainly there are many more enjoyable periods up front for many who read carefully your website.

  25. off white
    4th November 2022 at 7:08 am #

    Needed to compose you the little word to thank you very much as before on your fantastic suggestions you’ve shown on this site. This is remarkably open-handed with people like you to provide easily what exactly a number of us might have supplied as an e-book to generate some dough on their own, especially now that you might well have done it if you wanted. Those basics in addition served as a easy way to realize that someone else have similar fervor really like mine to know the truth somewhat more in terms of this condition. I am sure there are thousands of more enjoyable sessions ahead for many who discover your blog.

  26. kd 14
    7th November 2022 at 10:59 am #

    I simply wanted to thank you very much yet again. I’m not certain the things that I would’ve taken care of without the type of tricks discussed by you regarding this question. It had become a very frightening dilemma for me, but taking note of the very professional form you solved that made me to jump for contentment. Now i am grateful for this guidance and hope you comprehend what a powerful job that you’re getting into instructing the others using a web site. Most probably you’ve never encountered all of us.

  27. jordan sneakers
    27th November 2022 at 8:35 am #

    I precisely wished to say thanks again. I do not know the things that I might have worked on without the ways discussed by you over such a subject matter. It absolutely was a challenging condition for me personally, nevertheless taking note of a new skilled fashion you managed it forced me to weep over contentment. I will be grateful for the support and as well , hope you know what a great job you are always undertaking instructing the mediocre ones all through a web site. Most probably you haven’t encountered all of us.

  28. off white
    18th May 2023 at 4:25 pm #

    I precisely had to say thanks once more. I am not sure the things that I would’ve handled in the absence of the solutions contributed by you relating to this area of interest. Certainly was a very depressing condition for me personally, nevertheless being able to see a new professional way you resolved it took me to cry over delight. I’m grateful for this information and have high hopes you are aware of a great job you happen to be carrying out educating some other people thru your blog post. More than likely you haven’t met any of us.

  29. supreme
    28th May 2023 at 4:58 am #

    I must point out my gratitude for your kindness supporting folks that need guidance on this idea. Your special commitment to getting the solution all over appeared to be definitely informative and have in most cases encouraged some individuals like me to realize their targets. Your helpful advice entails this much a person like me and further more to my office colleagues. Thank you; from all of us.

  30. Golden Goose
    17th June 2023 at 2:43 am #

    I wanted to send you one tiny note just to say thank you yet again for your personal pleasant views you have discussed on this page. This has been really surprisingly generous with you to supply without restraint what exactly some people might have offered for sale for an electronic book in order to make some money for themselves, principally considering the fact that you might well have tried it in case you considered necessary. The thoughts as well acted like the good way to be aware that someone else have the identical dream really like mine to understand a little more regarding this matter. I am certain there are several more fun periods in the future for individuals that read carefully your blog post.

  31. Web Design Firms Near Me
    13th July 2023 at 9:48 am #

    Individuals have actually been raving about this for years. Experience the power of Phenomenal today!

  32. flooring installer jobs near me
    6th August 2023 at 11:59 am #

    You can have the ideal time of your life with this product if you use it!

  33. Marlys Dagata
    17th August 2023 at 3:08 am #

    Get everything done and looked after with this one-time bargain!

  34. Jeffreykig
    22nd December 2023 at 3:31 pm #

    I gave https://www.cornbreadhemp.com/collections/full-spectrum-cbd-oil a whack at for the treatment of the primary adjust, and I’m amazed! They tasted distinguished and provided a intelligibility of calmness and relaxation. My stress melted away, and I slept less ill too. These gummies are a game-changer for me, and I extremely commend them to anyone seeking unconstrained emphasis relief and think twice sleep.

Leave a Reply to Will Click here to cancel reply.