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Photo Essay: Another Great Day Of Cycling In Holland

Posted March 19th, 2011

We love Holland. Cycling around The Hague on Saturday, we noticed just how happy it makes us to live in a country where cycling blends seamlessly with our everyday lives.

The cycling culture (and its normality) is so different from anywhere else we’ve been, that we still spend our days around town taking photographs of all the bikes, people on bikes, ourselves on bikes… well, you get the idea. Here are some favourite pictures from our most recent day out.

We started our day at the market; more specifically at a fish stall. Lunch was fried fish (lekkerbek) and rolls filled with herring and onions (broodje haring). This is typical Dutch fast food.

A Typical Dutch Lunch

We bought some tulips (now just 5 euros for a huge bunch), and put them in a pannier. So pretty!

Tulips in a pannier

Next it was off to do some cycling. We headed for the beach, and you could see we were close to the water by the accessories on the bicycles…

Surfboard on a bike!

After about 30km of cycling, we stopped for another typical Dutch treat: apple cake and coffee.

Apple Taart & Koffie

Then we headed in town to do some shopping, but not before admiring some more bicycles, like this one with the painted chain guard.

A beautiful bike.

Dutch people don’t always have fancy bikes, but they love to decorate them, and they take them everywhere. This Haring stand had lots of bicycles around it, and of course one prominently parked out front.

Haring Stand

We did our shopping, and headed home with everything strapped to the back.

Carrying home new duvets for our guest room

On the way home, we spotted a typical kid being carted around on a bicycle. This is totally normal here. Luggage racks are not usually for luggage. They’re for carrying children, friends, girlfriends…

How kids normally get around in Holland

Just one more bike light, and we’re home. Another great day of cycling in Holland.

Bike lights

The World’s 10 Best Bike Tours?

Posted March 18th, 2011

A little over a year ago, we wrote about 10 Places To Ride Your Bike Before You Die – a list of the favourite places we’ve been on our bicycles.

Now, we’ve come up with 10 more dream bike tours – our own personal list of the top places we’d like to go next. Some we’ve been to in part, but we’d like to explore more. Others we’ve never seen but we’ve heard so many great reports that they’re on our short list.

Of course, reducing the world to just 10 bike tours could rightly be described as a great injustice to all the potential routes out there. Think of this as a little inspiration to get you dreaming, and share your ideas of the best places to cycle by leaving a comment.

1. North Sea Cycle Route

Route de la mer du Nord, allemagne


This 6,000km marked route traces the coastline of the North Sea. It goes through the UK, the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Norway and it’s easy to do just a section if you don’t have time for the whole thing. Much of the route is on dedicated bike paths or small roads, making this a very tranquil bike tour. More info: North Sea Cycle


2. Pacific Coast, United States

The Bike Tour


The Pacific Coast Highway has always intrigued us. We’re talking spectacular ocean views, massive redwood trees, classic cities like San Francisco and plenty of facilities for cyclists as you cycle through the states of Washington, Oregon and California. Maps are available from the Adventure Cycling Association. More Info: ACA Pacific Coast route


3. Danube Cycle Path

Danube Bike Path


We’ve already cycled the start of the Danube Bike Path; a perfectly paved trail running through Germany and Austria to the Hungarian capital of Budapest. This stretch is great for families, beginners or anyone who doesn’t want to spend much time figuring out logistics.

Now we want to finish the job. Apparently the path gets less refined as it goes along. We like the idea of that slow progression.

There are tons of guidebooks describing the route from the river’s source to where it empties into the Black Sea. Ride it on your own or pick from the many package tours. More Info: The Danube Bike path is part of EuroVelo6.


4. Japan

Japanese Temple


We were in Japan many years ago, and we’ve been dying to go back on our bicycles. We want to check out more temples, soak in the hot springs and gorge on sushi. Many people think Japan is expensive but to keep costs low, you can cook your own food and take advantage of the free campsites and local hospitality clubs. More Info: Japan Cycling and Journey of 1000 Li (We wrote this before the terrible 2011 earthquake in Japan. Hopefully the country will recover quickly and be ready to receive tourists again soon.)


5. The Silk Road & The Pamir Highway

Andrew in front of a Bukhara Mosque


A trip along the ancient Silk Road trade route and the Pamir Highway is a real adventure. First you’ll cross Turkey and Iran, heading for the Silk Road cities of Bukhara and Samarkand. Then you’ll head for the mountains, where you can still get a wonderful glimpse of nomadic life. Continue on down Tajikistan’s Pamir Highway and you have enough cycling to keep you busy for a good 4-6 months.

We’ve done the first part of this trip, but we missed out on southern Kyrgyzstan and the Pamir Highway. Now that would make a great summer tour one of these days! It’s a pain to get visas (and they’re not cheap) but the rewards are spectacular scenery and a real sense of exploration in this little-touristed region of the world. More Info: Our own pages on bike touring in Central Asia and Tim Barnes’ Totally Knackered tour


6. Carretera Austral, Chile

Towards the Cordillera


Pack a sturdy bike and your tent for this 1,000km mostly unpaved road. It passes through the region of Patagonia and encompasses some of Chile’s most stunning terrain, including mountains, lakes and glaciers. This is definitely a summer route. In the off-season it can be closed by snow and heavy rain. More Info: A journal of a bike tourist in the Carretera Austral and Patagonia.


7. Southeast Asia

Cameron Highlands, Malaysia


International bike touring doesn’t get much easier than in Southeast Asia, and there’s a lot to explore. We’ve spent 6 months here, and still not seen it all. Next on our list? The east coast of Malaysia and a jaunt into Myanmar / Burma. We also want to return to the Cameron Highlands tea growing area in Malaysia (pictured), where the air is refreshingly cool, for some day rides and hikes, which we didn’t have time for on the last trip.

Throughout the region, costs are affordable (even for the most budget-minded bike tourists), traffic is generally relaxed, hotels are easy to find and the food is great. More Info: Our own pages on bike touring in Southeast Asia and the slightly old but still helpful Mr. Pumpy


8. Morocco


Cheap flights and ferries from Europe make Morocco very accessible and it’s a great first taste of bike touring outside of the developed world. We’ve been to Morocco several times, and while the country is becoming increasingly touristy, it still offers plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track.

Classic rides include the coastal route between Agadir and Essaouira and the trip from Marrakech, over the mountains and through the Draa Valley to the Sahara desert near Zagora. We’ve done all of these. Now we want to do a backroads tour of Morocco: no asphalt and lots of camping. More Info: Our own pages on bike touring in Morocco and the video (above) from our friends Blanche & Douwe. They’ve biked Morocco’s paths and tracks several times, so we’ll be picking their brains if we do this trip!


9. Great Divide Route



Few places do “pure nature” as well as North America and the Great Divide is at the top of our list of routes to cycle on the continent. This off-pavement mountain bike route traces the Continental Divide from Banff in Canada all the way south to the Mexican border. It takes about 3 months to complete. A mountain bike with front suspension forks is often recommended to help cope with the tough terrain. More Info: ACA’s page on the Great Divide cycling route


10. Karakoram Highway



A classic route between China and Pakistan, and one that may change significantly in the coming years (for the worse) as the road improves and becomes more accessible to heavy traffic. Go now, before it’s too late! More Info: Cycling The Karakoram Highway


What are the bike tours on your “to ride” list? Tell us. Leave a comment.

Photos: The Bike Tour by Tommy DavisRoute de la mer du Nord (by Vocivelo, flickr)Cycling Along Pakistan’s Gilgit River Valley (by Yodod, flickr)Towards the Cordillera (by Magical World, flickr), Cycling The Great Divide (by rich drogpa, flickr)

Dutch Cyclists: A Photo Essay

Posted October 9th, 2010

Today was beautiful, sunny day here in Holland; the perfect day for a special bike ride.

The idea for today’s ride goes back a few months, when we promised our friend Shirley Agudo that we would take her on a tour of the area where we live. She wanted to photograph local cyclists for her Bicycle Mania book, especially on the bike paths that run along the beaches of the North Sea.

The only problem is that it’s hard for Shirley to cycle AND take pictures at the same time, so…. we rented a Dutch cargo bike as her chariot for the day. Voila!

These bikes are huge. Traditionally they were used to move large loads of goods around towns. Today, you hardly ever see them in use. Sometimes they’re used to move house, but more often than not they end up in a driveway as an ornament. Like this one we saw a few weeks ago…

Because they are so rarely used, these bikes gather a bit of attention when you drive one around town; even more so when you put someone in the front like this. We made a lot of people smile!

As we were cycling, we got some great photos of other people out enjoying the late autumn sunshine. There was this man out walking the dog…

Someone taking a break…

Racers and people out for a leisurely ride…

But best of all were the cyclists we saw as we headed back into town at the end of the day. They were side by side…

Two on one bike…

And just going home from shopping.

At the end of the day, many headed for the train station to go home. How do they ever find their bikes here, amongst the thousands in the racks??

We headed home too, after a long but very fun day. Thanks Shirley!

Want to see more photos from the weekend? Here’s the full set of 25…

Bicycle Touring In The Netherlands

Posted September 22nd, 2010

Dutch WindmillHot off the press: Transitions Abroad has just published an article by yours truly on bicycle touring in the Netherlands.

It gives tips on some of my favourite places to cycle in this country: the Hoge Veluwe national park (near Utrecht), the North Sea cycle route and wonderful Friesland, in the north of the Netherlands, as well as plenty of useful links and tips if you’re planning to cycle here. Check it out.

Had I been writing the article now, I might have added a destination to my list of favourite places: the Green Heart of Holland.

We spent a day exploring this area, around the town of Gouda (yes, the one famous for its cheese) and not far from Rotterdam. We loved the picturesque scenery, canals and tea gardens. Here’s a slideshow, to entice you over here for a ride.

The Not-Quite-As-Planned Bike Tour

Posted July 23rd, 2010

Sometimes life doesn’t go as planned. The unexpected happens occasionally in our everyday routines, and always on a bike tour!

So when we set out last weekend to bike tour along as much as we could of Stage 1 of the 2010 Tour de France, we should have known our tour would look nothing like this map of the Tour de France route.

We were barely out the door when our route changed. We could have cycled to the official start of the Tour de France, in Rotterdam, but those racing cyclists don’t always take the nicest routes. Far better to ride along the dunes just north of The Hague. The sandy beaches run all the way to Hook of Holland (where many ferries arrive from England), and so do the traffic-free bike paths. In the summer, it can also be very bright. Sunscreen is still required in the evening, as you can see from these photos.


Bike at the beach

So far, so good. We hopped on a ferry across the channel of water that leads from the North Sea to Rotterdam, and paid the princely sum of €1.15 for our cruise. Entertainment on deck was provided by taking close-up photos of our bike, against the stunningly aqua paint job of the ferry. Could this photo be in a modern art museum somewhere? It’s a little odd and out of focus, but we like it.


From here on in though, our plans quickly went sideways. Oh, we found the campground and squeezed ourselves in between the hordes of people out for a weekend. We even had a nice meal before toddling off to bed. But then, at 2am, Friedel felt sick. That get-me-out-of-the-tent now sort of urgent sickness. Happily Andrew was there (and awake!) to get the door open quickly. The next morning, the tummy bug had done enough work to put Friedel off coffee and most food. Now, the tour was going to look a little different.

Slower and shorter became the name of the game. We pedaled at a gentle 12km an hour and we stopped regularly for breaks. Lots of them. We took photos of this bike, covered in flowers, with a tulip-themed back basket.


And of this pub, decked out for the final between Holland and Spain in the World Cup. Can you fit another strip of flags in anywhere?


And we stopped to chat with the local horses. This one tried to eat Andrew’s handlebar bag.


Our slow pace wasn’t getting us far along the Tour de France route, but it did lead us into the path of these two Belgian guys, out on a 10-day bike tour. We chatted for a good 20 minutes, admiring their go-for-it attitude and the way they’d set out on a tour just using normal bikes (quite heavy ones at that!), saddlebags that are normally for commuting in town and a kid’s bike trailer, re-purposed to carry cargo. More proof that you can tour with just about any setup you can hack together in your backyard.


We liked this set-up so much, that we made a plan to find a kids trailer and do the same. We were inspired!

And that’s the nice thing about the not-quite-as-planned tour. Whether the plans go wrong because you got sick, lost or just wanted to do something different, the change of plans doesn’t stop the trip from being any less interesting. Sometimes, the tour might even be better because of the new plans.

We carried on slowly, stopping to admire the fields, the geese, the flowers and the abandoned bicycles in front of nearly every home.


And our way home, we discovered another great ferry that wasn’t on our original route. We couldn’t believe how many racing cyclists were on it! It might not have been the Tour de France, but it felt like we were in the middle of a peleton as the cyclists rushed off the boat.


Going the other way was a bit more lonely. We didn’t mind.


They say to save the best for last, and perhaps the best part of our unplanned weekend and our unplanned route came when we arrived in the small town of Schipluiden, and discovered a tea garden. Under the shade of some trees, in a narrow garden, we ate this: a wonderful plate of pancakes, ice cream and rose jelly!


Now just 20km from home, we toddled off towards the luxury of a bed and a shower. And we made plans to do the Tour de France route another weekend. Maybe next time it will go as planned…