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Dry Bags For Bike Touring: Do You Need One?

Posted January 14th, 2012

Dry BagsDry Bags are waterproof bags (often used by kayakers) with a roll-top closure at one end, which folds over itself a few times to form a totally waterproof seal.

We’ve always used a dry bag for bike touring. It’s a large Ortlieb bag that holds much of our camping gear: our tent (a Hilleberg Nallo 3GT), the poles, groundsheet and tarp.

The dry bag is big enough that sometimes we also stuff other things inside, such as extra food or our rain gear (if the rain gear is at the top, it’s really easy to reach when the sky goes grey). All of this goes in one big bundle on the back of the bike, between the panniers.

Dry Bag Between Our Panniers

See the red bag? It’s made by Ortlieb – a 22 liter dry bag (we bought it (from Wiggle). Ours is currently 6 years old and still going strong.

We thought the benefits of a dry bag were obvious but recently a reader wrote to ask for more information:

Why would you need a dry bag for your tent which is designed to keep rain off you? If you arrive at a camp site and it looks like rain, you take your tent out of your expensive ‘dry bag’. It will remain lovely and dry… until it rains. When you put the wet tent into your ‘dry bag’ in the morning, after it has kept the rain off you all night, it will remain nicely wet in the ‘dry bag’ because ‘dry bags’ presumably do not let water in nor out. Please explain??!! -Bob.

That’s a fair question. Now that you mention it, maybe it is a bit confusing. Here’s why we use a dry bag:
Ortlieb Dry Bag

  • Versatility. A dry bag can be used for many things, not just the tent. For example, ours usually held our tent + groundsheet + rain gear and other assorted bits and bobs.
  • Protects from rain during the day. One of Bob’s points was that a tent is “designed to keep rain off you” but that’s only true when it’s properly set up. If the tent is simply folded up on the back of your bike and it’s a rainy day on the road, a tent can be quite wet by the time you get to your campsite. A dry bag keeps a tent dry until you get into camp, where you can hopefully set it up quickly before it gets too wet.
  • Protects from the elements. Tent fabrics can be delicate (especially on ultralight tents) so a dry bag is an extra layer of protection from dust, debris, rough surfaces and UV rays.
  • Keeps the wet tent away from our other stuff. We don’t want our wet tent rubbing up against any of our gear, or making our panniers dirty. The dry bag keeps it contained, away from all our other equipment.
  • Durablity. Our dry bag is 6 years old. It’s been on a 3-year world tour plus numerous shorter trips. We expect it to last several more years, and would have no hesitation taking it on another world tour.

As for the question about putting a wet tent in a dry bag, we try to avoid this situation. If there is any dew on the tent, we pack everything else up first and do the tent last. Hopefully by that time the morning sun has dried away most of the moisture. We deal with any lingering wetness around mid-morning or at lunchtime, when we stop for a break and spread the tent out to dry.

On truly rainy days, and a few other odd occasions, the tent will have to be packed away wet but that will be a problem no matter how you’re storing your tent. Bike tour long enough and the time will come when you have to deal with several days of rain in a row, with no chance to dry out. That’s just life.

The good news is that in the short term, it’s no problem to carry a wet tent. The only thing that will suffer is your comfort (and that’s best solved by getting a hotel room, turning up the heat and hanging everything up to dry overnight). Problems with mold and mildew normally only start after a wet tent is stored in a relatively warm place for at least a couple of days.

What About You? 

That’s what we do. What about other bike tourists?

We asked our Facebook and Twitter followers to comment and we had over 50 replies! Of those, the vast majority (about 75%) also used a dry bag. If you’re looking for alternatives, however, there are many to choose from.

Perhaps the most popular reader tip came from Wade, who puts his tent in the rear pannier and then uses Gear Ties to secure the poles and stakes to his bike’s top tube.

Gear Ties!

Richard Welch also puts his tent in a pannier:

In A Pannier

Other options suggested by readers include:

1. In A Rucksack

Tent in a rucksack

2. In A Garbage Bag

In A Garbage Bag

3. Strapped On The Rear Rack

Strapped On The Rear Rack

Twitter - Dry Bag

4. Wrapped In Its Own Rain Fly

Twitter - Dry Bag

Do you use a dry bag? Leave a comment to share your experience.

Vittorio Bicycles & A Bike Touring Fair

Posted December 15th, 2011

Last weekend, we travelled north of Amsterdam to visit steel touring bike maker Vittorio Bicycles and their annual bike touring fair.

Here’s a short video with the highlights of the day, including a look at the new Marathon Mondial touring tires, the favourite things that bike tourists Saskia & Jan-Willem take on tour and an amazing bike built for an expedition over a frozen river in Russia!

*Sorry for the video quality. It isn’t great because we were testing the video function on a new camera. As we learned, it doesn’t focus very well!

How We Rebuilt Our World Touring Bikes

Posted December 5th, 2011

How do you take a touring bicycle from this….

Friedel's Robin Mather Touring Bike

To this…?

Rebuilding our touring bikes

By rebuilding it, of course! That’s Friedel’s bicycle in the photos above, and there was (literally) a world of riding between the two snapshots: 3 years, 30 countries and nearly 50,000km. After a trip like that, our bicycles needed a bit of work.

Want to know…

Why The Rebuild?

  • The paintwork on both bikes and racks was chipped and scratched
  • Many things were worn out: back cassette, chain rings, chain, pedals, bottom brackets, handlebar grips…
  • After over 15,000km of riding, the wheel rims were a bit thin
  • Almost everything needed a good clean and re-greasing

This was also the perfect opportunity to learn a bit more about the technical side of a bicycle; something that, frankly, we weren’t so interested in when we began touring in 2006.

First: Build Some New Wheels

We began the rebuild process by learning how to build our own bicycle wheels with a master frame builder and bike mechanic.

Wheel building workshopBuilding our first wheels. Photo by Alicia.

We built two wheels each: a back wheel with a standard 9-speed cassette, and a front wheel with a SON dynamo. (Cost: €174 for each SON dynamo. €46 for the rim / spokes for each wheel + €54 for the cassette / hub for each back wheel)

Second: Repaint The Frames

We stripped the bikes down to the bare frames and took them to BCP Special Paintwork to be bead blasted and repainted. This wasn’t cheap but the paint job was a professional one, and we could choose almost any colour we liked. Fun! (Cost: €250 each)

P1030156

Third: Get Out The Tools & Start Building

Eight weeks later, our newly painted frames were ready, and we started the actual process of rebuilding the bikes.

A head tube facing and reaming tool is a hand tool used to machine the head tube to ensure proper headset bearing alignment. -Wikipedia

Let the bike rebuilding begin!Preparing Friedel’s frame, before putting on a new headset. In hindsight, we should have done this on the bike stand, but it worked out okay!

With the headsets on, the rest of the build went quite quickly. Just a few hours later, Friedel’s bike looked like this!

Trevor & Andrew

By the next day, both bikes were complete enough to go for a ride. Only the racks, kickstands and a few minor accessories are missing.

Andrew & his new bike

The First Ride

To our surprise, it was both wonderful and strange to be back on the bicycles that took us around the world. They have a completely different feel to the Santos Travelmaster bicycles we bought in late 2010. For example, these steel-framed tourers are smaller, and we sit less upright in the saddle than we do with the Santos bikes. Both bikes are comfortable, just in different ways.

It’s early days yet but if we had to pick a bike now to take on a world tour, we’d have a hard time deciding. Both bikes have their plus and minus points. A few more tours are in order, before we can really make that call.

In any case, we’re thrilled to have our one-of-a-kind Robin Mather bikes back together. There’s a lot of nostalgia and many good memories in those frames!

Our Steel Touring Bicycles: Technical Specs

Posted December 5th, 2011

Friedel's touring bike by Robin MatherAndrew's touring bike by Robin MatherWe bought our our Robin Mather steel-framed touring bicycles in 2006 and took them on a 3-year world tour.

The top photos show the bikes as they originally looked, near the start of our epic tour.

After such an adventure (50,000km of pedalling), the bikes needed some work. In 2011, we rebuilt them to the specs listed below. You can also read more about the rebuilding process.

First, we’d like to share some thoughts on the rebuild:

1. These are meant to be sensible, basic touring bikes. Some people might say the components are a bit boring but we focused on simplicity and reliability. After all, these are not our only touring bikes.

2. If we were planning an extended tour (3+ months) in the near future, we would have plumped for more parts from Shimano’s Deore LX or XT range.

3. Many parts were cleaned and reused from the original bikes.

4. We’ve mixed and matched some parts from our Santos Travelmaster touring bicycles. For example, Andrew built a front wheel with dynamo hub (just like on Friedel’s steel bike) but that now sits on his Santos Travelmaster and the steel bike has the front wheel that came with the Travelmaster.

5. Total rebuild cost was about €500 for Andrew’s bike and €750 for Friedel’s bike. The most expensive things were the new paint job (€250) and – on Friedel’s bike – the dynamo wheel (€275). Originally, the bikes cost £1,500.

6. The current photos don’t show the totally complete bikes. One day we’ll take a picture with all the racks and accessories on the bikes. Nonetheless, we’ve listed everything that we plan to put on the bikes at this point.

We’re still not real ‘tech-heads’ so it’s possible that we’ve made a mistake or forgotten something on the list. If you have questions, get in touch and we’ll do our best to answer.

Bike #1 – Andrew’s Bicycle

Rebuilding our touring bikes

Frame & Fork

Handmade from steel by British bike builder Robin Mather. This is a classic touring bike from top to bottom. Robin does beautiful work. It’s just a shame that he hasn’t been building bikes for several years now. The cost at the time (2006) for the custom frame and fork was £755.

Transmission

  • Bottom Bracket – Shimano BB-UN55 (68mm) new
  • Crankset – Shimano Alivio 42-32-22 with 175mm cracks (M431) new (similar to this crankset on Wiggle)
  • Rear Derailleur – Shimano Deore M531 (bought in New Zealand in 2009; the original Deore derailleur was nearly dead after about 40,000km)
  • Front Derailleur – Shimano Deore M530 original
  • Cassette – 9-speed Shimano Deore XT CS-HG50 new
  • Shifters – Shimano Deore M510 original

Wheels

Chris King Cane Creek 40 EC34Steering

Brakes

  • Front & Rear Brakes – Shimano Deore LX M580 V-Brakes original
  • Teflon casing new

Seat

  • Seatpost – Selcof Team original
  • Saddle – Brooks B17 original

Racks

DMR V8 Pedals

Pedals

Accessories

(more on GPS systems for bike touring)

Bike #2 – Friedel’s Bicycle

Rebuilding our touring bikes

Frame & Fork

Handmade from steel by British bike builder Robin Mather. This is a classic touring bike from top to bottom. Robin does beautiful work. It’s just a shame that he hasn’t been building bikes for several years now. The cost at the time (2006) for the custom frame and fork was £755.

Transmission

Shimano Acera Crankset 44-32-22

  • Bottom Bracket – Shimano BB-UN55 (68mm) new
  • Crankset – Shimano Acera 44-32-22 with 170mm cranks new (arguably a bit low brow but half the price of the Alivio equivalent on Andrew’s bike; we can now do a good comparison!)
  • Rear Derailleur – Shimano Deore M531 (bought in New Zealand in 2009; the original Deore derailleur was nearly dead after about 40,000km)
  • Front Derailleur – Shimano Deore M530 original
  • Cassette – 9-speed Shimano Deore XT CS-HG50 new
  • Shifters – Shimano Deore M530 (Bought in Turkey. The original M510 shifters failed after 17,000km of use )

Wheels

  • Front Hub – SON Dynamo new
  • Front Rim & Spokes – Sputnik Rigidia & Sapim 14-15 double-butted spokes new (self-built)
  • Rear Rim & Spokes – Sputnik Rigidia & Sapim 14-15 double-butted spokes new (self-built)
  • Front and Rear Tire – Marathon XRs new (more on tires for touring; the XR is no longer manufactured but we had 2 leftover)
  • Rear Hub – Shimano Deore LX T660 new
  • Front and Rear Fenders – SKS 53mm trekking mudguards new

Steering
Ergon GC3 Grips

Brakes

Seat

  • Seatpost – Selcof Team original
  • Saddle – Brooks B17S original

Racks

Pedals

AccessoriesThe Ding Dong Bell

Review & Contest: Vaude Road I Handlebar Bag

Posted November 29th, 2011

For nearly a year now, Friedel’s been searching for a handlebar bag. There are many to choose from but for a long time, none of them seemed ‘just right’.

They were all too big, too expensive or too hard to open and close. It wasn’t until she saw this – the Vaude Road I Handlebar Bag - that she took the plunge.

Friedel's New Handlebar Bag!

Here are some of the features:

  • Weighs 595 grams
  • 5 liter capacity
  • Klick-fix attachment (very sturdy)
  • Includes a map case and rain cover
  • Shoulder strap (removable)
  • Reflective details
  • Retails for €60 (about $80 U.S. dollars)

Inside the main compartment is a:

  • primary storage space
  • zipped pocket along one wall
  • pocket with a velcro closure along the other wall.

The two side pockets are handy places to stash a passport or emergency cash. The whole compartment is padded with foam (behind the polyester liner), and this gives a bit of shock protection to whatever you put inside.

Friedel's New Handlebar Bag!

The main pocket is fairly spacious. Friedel typically carries a small camera, wallet, keys, sunglasses and a mobile phone inside. You could fit a small DSLR camera inside, though there wouldn’t be much room left over.

On top of the main compartment is another pocket. It’s perfect for a few papers, or a set of keys. On the front of the bag, you find another similar pocket, with more separated areas. These various pouches and slots make it easy to categorize and sort your stuff.

Friedel's New Handlebar Bag!

The bag isn’t waterproof but it does come with a rain cover. Even in fairly heavy rain (without using the rain cover) the inside stays fairly dry. It makes sense, of course, to put things like cameras and passports in a plastic bag, or remember to put the rain cover on at the first sign of a shower.

All in all, we really like this bag. It’s sturdily constructed, big enough to carry everything you need, and the zippers make it very easy to open and close – even while riding. Highly recommended.

*** Win A Vaude Road I Handlebar Bag! ***

Note: the contest is now closed. Click here to find out who the winner was.

For our wonderful readers, Vaude has agreed to give away a Road I Handlebar bag! It will be black with red trim, as you see in the picture below.

Vaude Road I Handlebar Bag Want to win? Here’s what to do:

  • Leave a comment below. Tell us why you’d love to win one of these bags.

OR

  • Tweet the following message about the contest: Win a Vaude Road I Handlebar bag from @travellingtwo and @VAUDE_nl http://bit.ly/winvaudebag

Good luck! You can enter twice: once by leaving a comment on this page, and once by Tweeting about the contest. We’ll pick a winner at random from the comments and tweets. The deadline for entries is 5pm (European time) on Sunday, December 4th, 2011. We’ll announce the winner on Monday, December 5th, 2011.