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Dry Bags: The Way To Carry A Tent On Tour?

Posted January 15th, 2012

Dry BagsDry Bags are waterproof bags (often used by kayakers) with a roll-top closure at one end, which folds over itself a few times to form a totally waterproof seal.

We’ve always used a dry bag for bike touring. It’s a large Ortlieb bag that holds much of our camping gear: our tent (a Hilleberg Nallo 3GT), the poles, groundsheet and tarp.

The dry bag is big enough that sometimes we also stuff other things inside, such as extra food or our rain gear (if the rain gear is at the top, it’s really easy to reach when the sky goes grey). All of this goes in one big bundle on the back of the bike, between the panniers.

Dry Bag Between Our Panniers

See the red bag? It’s made by Ortlieb – a 22 liter dry bag (£14.40 from Wiggle). Ours is currently 6 years old and still going strong.

We thought the benefits were obvious but recently a reader wrote to ask what was so special about this dry bag:

Why would you need a dry bag for your tent which is designed to keep rain off you? If you arrive at a camp site and it looks like rain, you take your tent out of your expensive ‘dry bag’. It will remain lovely and dry… until it rains. When you put the wet tent into your ‘dry bag’ in the morning, after it has kept the rain off you all night, it will remain nicely wet in the ‘dry bag’ because ‘dry bags’ presumably do not let water in nor out. Please explain??!! -Bob.

That’s a fair question. Now that you mention it, maybe it is a bit confusing.

Here are the detailed reasons why we use a dry bag. (click to read more)

Dry Bags For Bike Touring: Do You Need One?

Posted January 14th, 2012

Dry BagsDry Bags are waterproof bags (often used by kayakers) with a roll-top closure at one end, which folds over itself a few times to form a totally waterproof seal.

We’ve always used a dry bag for bike touring. It’s a large Ortlieb bag that holds much of our camping gear: our tent (a Hilleberg Nallo 3GT), the poles, groundsheet and tarp.

The dry bag is big enough that sometimes we also stuff other things inside, such as extra food or our rain gear (if the rain gear is at the top, it’s really easy to reach when the sky goes grey). All of this goes in one big bundle on the back of the bike, between the panniers.

Dry Bag Between Our Panniers

See the red bag? It’s made by Ortlieb – a 22 liter dry bag (we bought it (from Wiggle). Ours is currently 6 years old and still going strong.

We thought the benefits of a dry bag were obvious but recently a reader wrote to ask for more information:

Why would you need a dry bag for your tent which is designed to keep rain off you? If you arrive at a camp site and it looks like rain, you take your tent out of your expensive ‘dry bag’. It will remain lovely and dry… until it rains. When you put the wet tent into your ‘dry bag’ in the morning, after it has kept the rain off you all night, it will remain nicely wet in the ‘dry bag’ because ‘dry bags’ presumably do not let water in nor out. Please explain??!! -Bob.

That’s a fair question. Now that you mention it, maybe it is a bit confusing. Here’s why we use a dry bag:
Ortlieb Dry Bag

  • Versatility. A dry bag can be used for many things, not just the tent. For example, ours usually held our tent + groundsheet + rain gear and other assorted bits and bobs.
  • Protects from rain during the day. One of Bob’s points was that a tent is “designed to keep rain off you” but that’s only true when it’s properly set up. If the tent is simply folded up on the back of your bike and it’s a rainy day on the road, a tent can be quite wet by the time you get to your campsite. A dry bag keeps a tent dry until you get into camp, where you can hopefully set it up quickly before it gets too wet.
  • Protects from the elements. Tent fabrics can be delicate (especially on ultralight tents) so a dry bag is an extra layer of protection from dust, debris, rough surfaces and UV rays.
  • Keeps the wet tent away from our other stuff. We don’t want our wet tent rubbing up against any of our gear, or making our panniers dirty. The dry bag keeps it contained, away from all our other equipment.
  • Durablity. Our dry bag is 6 years old. It’s been on a 3-year world tour plus numerous shorter trips. We expect it to last several more years, and would have no hesitation taking it on another world tour.

As for the question about putting a wet tent in a dry bag, we try to avoid this situation. If there is any dew on the tent, we pack everything else up first and do the tent last. Hopefully by that time the morning sun has dried away most of the moisture. We deal with any lingering wetness around mid-morning or at lunchtime, when we stop for a break and spread the tent out to dry.

On truly rainy days, and a few other odd occasions, the tent will have to be packed away wet but that will be a problem no matter how you’re storing your tent. Bike tour long enough and the time will come when you have to deal with several days of rain in a row, with no chance to dry out. That’s just life.

The good news is that in the short term, it’s no problem to carry a wet tent. The only thing that will suffer is your comfort (and that’s best solved by getting a hotel room, turning up the heat and hanging everything up to dry overnight). Problems with mold and mildew normally only start after a wet tent is stored in a relatively warm place for at least a couple of days.

What About You? 

That’s what we do. What about other bike tourists?

We asked our Facebook and Twitter followers to comment and we had over 50 replies! Of those, the vast majority (about 75%) also used a dry bag. If you’re looking for alternatives, however, there are many to choose from.

Perhaps the most popular reader tip came from Wade, who puts his tent in the rear pannier and then uses Gear Ties to secure the poles and stakes to his bike’s top tube.

Gear Ties!

Richard Welch also puts his tent in a pannier:

In A Pannier

Other options suggested by readers include:

1. In A Rucksack

Tent in a rucksack

2. In A Garbage Bag

In A Garbage Bag

3. Strapped On The Rear Rack

Strapped On The Rear Rack

Twitter - Dry Bag

4. Wrapped In Its Own Rain Fly

Twitter - Dry Bag

Do you use a dry bag? Leave a comment to share your experience.

A Bike Stand Made From IKEA Parts

Posted December 26th, 2011

With two new touring bikes recently added to our collection, our little apartment was getting crowded. Time for some clever bike storage.

We hunted around the internet for ideas. First we found this but on closer inspection we realised we’d need to screw the post to the floor, and we didn’t want to ruin our wood floors.

This DIY bike stand also caught our eye. Very stylish, with steel cabling, but still too many screws…

Bike Rack

Finally, we found this Broder Bike Rack (named after the IKEA range that the parts come from). It only required putting 2 screws in the ceiling, and the total price was under €40. Perfect.

Off we went to IKEA, pausing only briefly by the entrance to be amazed by the cool cargo bikes. Just imagine how much stuff you could pedal home with in one of these! And only €5 an hour to rent. Bargain! Wouldn’t want to try it against a headwind though.

P1040653

An hour or so later and we were out the other side of the IKEA maze, with everything we needed to make our rack: one post, one extension piece, two brackets and four hooks. Andrew tied it all on the bike and we headed home…

P1040654

After spending quite some time scrubbing all the annoying stickers and their tacky residue off the metal components, we were ready for assembly. It was easy: slot the poles together, screw the top bracket into the ceiling and put the brackets together. Andrew also glued some bits of inner tube on the inside of the hooks, so they wouldn’t scratch the bike frames.

New IKEA bike stand

And here’s the finished rack. Voila!

New IKEA bike stand

It really is straight… not so slanted as it looks in the photo!

Posted in Equipment

Recommended Hubs For Bike Touring

Posted December 18th, 2011

Deore LX hubs If you’re going on a long bike tour through less developed parts of the world, you naturally want the parts on your bike to last as long as possible.

With so many choices on the market, however, it can be hard to find the parts that are right for you. Occasionally we receive emails asking for our advice and experience with parts over long distances.

The latest question we received focused on which hubs to use for an extended bike tour through Africa:

A friend and I are planning a cycle trip through Africa, to some pretty remote places. I’m using Stephen Lord’s Adventure Cycle-Touring Handbook and the experience of me and my mates to makes calls on components for our bikes. The one thing I can’t settle on is which hubs to use. The mountain bike guys in our community say Hope or Chris King hubs are the way to go but they are significantly more expensive than Deore XTs or SLX or even XTR. I’ve never had hub problems, but I have some mates who’ve said their Shimano Hubs were a bit troublesome after events like the Cape Epic race. For an 8 month, 10,000km tour, what would you recommend? -Alex

Read our answer…

 

Posted in Equipment

Which Hubs To Use For Bike Touring

Posted December 16th, 2011

Deore LX hubs If you’re going on a long bike tour through less developed parts of the world, you naturally want the parts on your bike to last as long as possible.

With so many choices on the market, however, it can be hard to find the parts that are right for you. Occasionally we receive emails asking for our advice and experience with parts over long distances.

The latest question we received focused on which hubs to use for an extended bike tour through Africa (if you don’t want to read the whole post, the hubs on our current bikes are Shimano Deore LX and they also seem to be the preferred hub among most tourers at the moment):

A friend and I are planning a cycle trip through Africa, to some pretty remote places. I’m using Stephen Lord’s Adventure Cycle-Touring Handbook and the experience of me and my mates to makes calls on components for our bikes. The one thing I can’t settle on is which hubs to use. The mountain bike guys in our community say Hope or Chris King hubs are the way to go but they are significantly more expensive than Deore XTs or SLX or even XTR. I’ve never had hub problems, but I have some mates who’ve said their Shimano Hubs were a bit troublesome after events like the Cape Epic race. For an 8 month, 10,000km tour, what would you recommend? -Alex

As with all technical emails, we began our reply with a disclaimer. Still, for what it’s worth, here’s our experience with hubs:

“First things first: we are not mechanical experts. We’re just two people who like to bike tour and pick up tips along the way to share. We’re happy to give our experience but if you’re looking for the mechanic’s expert opinion, we’re not it.

We used Shimano’s Deore XT hubs on our world tour and had no major problems. Our maintenance was limited to:

1. After 15,000km – Cleaning and regreasing the bearings. This is actually a fairly easy job, if you have the correct tools to do it.

Cleaning and regreasing our hubs2. After 30,000km – Replacing the bearings in the hubs, as part of a wider bike overhaul. We had this done in Bangkok.

3. After 40,000km – Replacing Andrew’s hub but only because one of his wheels failed in Idaho and we had to replace it with a pre-built wheel, so Andrew received a new hub by default. Friedel’s hub ran flawlessly until the end of the tour (48,000km in total).

The bikes then went into storage, until we recently rebuilt them with standard Shimano kit (this time, Deore LX hubs). For us, so far, we’ve found Shimano hubs to be good value and reliable.

As for your trip, it’s true that there’s a good chance your hub won’t be running quite as smoothly after 10,000km as it did at the start. That said, when you go on such a long, challenging tour, you tend to become accustomed to your bike not running perfectly smoothly (or at least we did). We doubt that any slight added roughness will really bother you.

If you want a little extra reassurance, invest in some cone spanners and an emergency tool like the NBT2 so that you can take your hubs apart on the road. Ask a bike-savvy friend to show you how to take the hubs apart. It’s really not that hard to pull them apart, regrease and clean everything, and put them back together.”

This is only our opinion, so what’s your experience with hubs? Would you advise Alex to go for more expensive models? Leave a comment and share your thoughts.