Cycling Laos
Laos is an incredibly popular cycling destination in southeast Asia.
Its varied and beautiful landscape, laid back people, light traffic and low cost of living all win rave reviews. The UNESCO world heritage city Luang Prabang is the top ‘must see’ destination but the coffee plantations and waterfalls around the Bolaven Plateau and the Si Phan Don islands in the very south of the country also merit a few days.
Keep reading for more information on bike touring in Laos, including specific route details…
- Accommodation
- Budget and shopping
- Food and Water
- Getting a Visa
- Money Matters
- Roads and Maps
- When and Where
Cycle this…
There’s easily enough cycling to keep you busy for a month or six weeks if you want to do a comprehensive tour from north to south. Most cyclists will use buses to hop between the best spots or choose a portion of the country to explore. Two popular options are to ride north from Vientiane to Luang Prabang or across central Laos from Thailand to Vietnam.
It’s hard to find much negative to say about Laos. The hot and humid weather can make cycling uncomfortable if you’re not used to the tropics. Early starts and long lunchbreaks help with this. Rocketing numbers of tourists are also taking their toll on the country and sometimes things aren’t as laidback as older travel reports lead you to believe. You do have to keep an eye on the bill as overcharging is not uncommon, even in small towns.
Riding off the main roads in the wet season (June to September) can also be a muddy affair and you have to do some serious research before heading off the beaten track. What is marked as a main road on your map may be barely more than a forest track! Route 23 running north from Salavan is a case in point, with washed out bridges and a large section that’s just a sandy, rocky trail through the jungle.
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Dear Laos bikers, I am planning a 4 or 6 weeks trip to Laos next year and I am wondering, if it is better to bring my own bike with me from Italy or rather buy one in Laos. Any experience or deliberations on that? Advice? I have not the time for a 3-months tour through Asia – in that case I would of course bring my own for sure.
ciao, Simon
I think you might struggle to find any kind of decent bike in Laos. I could be wrong, but I don’t remember seeing any bike shops in Laos, let alone a half decent one. I’m guessing that finding something better than a “$100 supermarket special” would be tough, but I’m ready for someone to correct me if they have more recent info
thanks, Friedel, so will carry my bike with me – asked only since lonely planet says it is easy to buy a $100 bike. tks again, Si
Well, it’s only our impression, so by all means ask around. You’re welcome to ask on our Facebook group for opinions, if you like:
TravellingTwo Facebook Group
Hi Simon
I’m probably a bit late for this, only just read this article. I lived in Vientianne for 2 years back in 2006 – 2008 and yes they had a great bike shop there run by a French guy and can’t think of his name at the moment, but sure if you ask someone they will tell you. He’s great for repairs also his shop was on Don Palan road.
look forward to hearing about your trip. We also did lots of cycling adventures particularly in south of Laos, fabulous.
regards Heather
Thanks Heather – I am still grounded in office work, so had to move the cycle trip to next year and therefore your comment is not too late! Will let you know once I manage to get off!
Simon
Hi Simon
I remember the bike shop owner’s name in Vientiane, Willie and sure the bike shop name is Willie’s bike shop or something similar. Thailand is a great place to buy MTBs, not sure your plans where you intend to enter Laos. What we found when cycling in remote areas, there was always a shop of some kind and food available for purchase – might be tinned and always bottled water. Keep me informed of your adventure if possible. Cheerz Heather
Hi, great in depth review. Does anyone know about route 23 from muang phin to salavan ie how bad it is & in which parts (percentage), what surface, passable or unpasswble and anything else I should know before settin off on my 135 16″ wheels Nouvo? Thanks in advance
Hi, yes have cycled that route, certainly different and really interesting, many little villages and dirt tracks all rideable,and crossing rivers in a variety of boats. A great adventure, we had our own tents and food, but did buy whatever we needed along the way. Have fun and let me know how you get on. regards Heather
I decided to go to Salavan to gather some more information about route via road no 23 leading to a bombed bridge by the US in order to cut off Viet Nam supplies.
Just before setting off I got a message from a local agent that it’s not passable between May-Nov. Though, my mates didn’t know this and crossed on a 135cc motorbike. They said it was a little too adventures, very exhausting & would not do it again. They were stuggling to guess directions in the jungle where there is only unmarked paths. They had to cross deep rivers (should be easier for bicycles), very muddy/slippery rocks/roads, spend one night in the jungle where run out of water before reaching muang phin. You’d be going the other way around so the closer to Salavan you get the more shops are along road 23. It should be a lot easier by bicycle too cause you can always carry it back.
It’s wise to set off very early mornings, with enough water / food, compass/gps with offline maps (paper one won’t work in the jungle), torch, matches, bike fix-kit and preferably with a company cause no mobile phone coverage in certain parts.
Local people are usually unable to advise on current conditions.
See my blog for photos if you are interested in different locations. Cheers, David
Willie still in same place at mid point DonPalan rd. Giant, Specialized, Trek and others. Prices start about $400 and up.
Great guy. Honest.