After the wide open spaces and high mountains of Central Asia, hot and crowded Thailand couldn’t have been more of a change.
It was a good change for us. We adored the cheap and widely available street food. The people were friendly. The scenery was so colourful and different to what we’d experienced before.
Mostly we slept in budget hotels (available nearly everywhere and generally clean and cheap) but we did have some adventurous camping experiences. We were attacked once by aggressive ants, who ate their way through the groundsheet of our tent, and another night we slept in a Buddhist temple.
On the whole, Thailand turned out to be easy and very enjoyable cycling. We’d happily return.
We’re packing our bags, we’re not quite ready to go but hopefully we’ll get it all together before we have to board a flight on Sunday. Destination, Bangkok. It was never our plan to fly out of Central Asia but visa muddles have left us with little choice and after fighting bureaucracy for far too
It’s a whole new world. Just a few hours in a plane have zipped us away from remote Central Asia to lively Bangkok, where we’re feasting on spicy Thai curries, power that stays on, water that’s always running and truly high speed internet for the first time in months. At first we felt strange boarding
When we first began our journey, some 22 months ago, we were determined to cycle every last mile. Something has changed since then. Worn down by the road? Perhaps a little bit. Getting lazier? Almost definitely a factor. We prefer to think of it as quality over quantity. Could we have ridden out of Thailand`s
170km Ayutthya to Pak Chong “Twenty baht for photo,” said the man on the elephant as he strode past, looking at us hopefully. What seemed like half a house of things – a table, some chairs, a washing basin – was piled on the elephant’s back and we couldn’t help stopping our bicycles to take
169km Pak Chong to Chok Chai It was past midnight and we were in our tent. We should have been asleep but we were listening to the rain come down and wishing it would go away. And between the drops of water pitter pattering on our home we also heard the birds having a late
169km Chok Choi to Praset Dawn had already broken when we first cracked open our eyes, remembered our pledge to make an early start the evening before and then rolled back over for another hour of sleep. Getting a move on before the heat rises is easier said than done but it’s a habit we
101km Praset to Sangkha We woke up with a little less spiritual tranquility than we might have hoped for after a night in a monastery. Novice monks were running in and out of the large hall we were given as a sleeping space until late in the evening, giggling at us and every so often
We are off again and running for the border. Can you tell that life is much easier on the visa front now??! No more waiting around for days, weeks even, at embassies, pushing and shoving to get to a little window and deal with a grumpy official. Here in Southeast Asia it’s all much simpler,
80km Sangkha to Anlong Veng We set off for Cambodia this morning, slightly concerned about the roads ahead but encouraged by the ever-smooth asphalt on the last part of our journey through Thailand. The last few kilometers went steeply uphill and not so long ago we would have been climbing, or more likely pushing, on
72km Houay Xai to Meng Rai We returned to Thailand today by crossing the Mekong in yet another rickety boat. Dodgy water transport seems to be a theme running through our travels across Cambodia and Laos but this morning’s voyage, with our bikes wedged into a narrow and wobbling vessel, should be the last of
Have we dropped off the face of the earth? You could be forgiven for wondering! It’s been over a week since we travelled the road to Chiang Mai, passing sulphuric hot springs and over a mountain pass on the way. The climb was challenging but not enough to tire us out for quite this long.
440km Chiang Mai to Mae Sot A few nights ago, we sat at a picnic table outside our riverside cabin in the small town of Mae Salit Luang, soothing our muscles after a gruelling day cycling up impossibly steep hills. It was a lot more pushing than cycling, actually. As the sunset colours came out
We’re still in the border town Mae Sot. Our plans to leave after a couple nights were put on hold when Friedel’s ear infection refused to clear up (it’s been over two weeks now – don’t put a cotton bud in your ear, we know that now!) and we got some bad news about our
549km Mae Sot to Kanchanaburi After working our muscles on the many steep climbs near the Myanmar border, just one last hill stood between us in Mae Sot and the typical Thai town of Tak. We hoped for a cloudy day – the best conditions for climbing – but instead we got blue skies and
Train ride from Bangkok to Pratchuap Kiri Khan “Where are you going?” The young voice drifted up to us, over the roar of a crowded waiting area at Bangkok’s Hualamphong train station. We ourselves were waiting with our bicycles to buy tickets for the train south. The question was spoken in such perfect English, with
311km Pratchuap Kiri Khan to Paknam Lang Suan The evening is calm. As the sun sets, the sky takes on a faint pink glow. The sea is calm. The beach is empty. It’s our fifth wedding anniversary and we couldn’t have picked a better place to be. It’s like we planned to have a whole
306km Paknam Lang Suan to Aonang Beach Two beaches. Two strips of sand with waves coming up on shore. At first glance they’re the same but these are no equals. Paknam Lang Suan, the little fishing village we so enjoyed on Thailand’s Gulf coast is a humble place. Just a few simple bungalows offer accommodation
338km Ao Nang Beach to Satun What to do when you’re a budget traveller, stuck in an overpriced beach resort? For cyclists, the answer is clear: find the all-you-can-eat buffet and tuck in. Shocked by the price of fried rice in Ao Nang, we followed the crowds to a bar called Bernies and their vegetarian