51km Castelo Branco to Paradanta

Another meal out, oh the budget....Friedel hits 10,000km on her bike!!Our “to do” list was growing rather large so this morning we set off to get a few things done: first a shopping trip to refill our panniers. Peanut butter, check. Bananas, check. Large quantities of cheese, check. Chorizo sausage, check. Once we got everything needed to sustain two hungry cyclists and managed to stuff all our new treasures into our bags, we went in search of an internet cafe to update the site. We finally found one, but no thanks to the grumpy and useless policeman who we asked for directions. Our recent experiences have led us to conclude that Portugal has the least helpful police force of the trip so far. Of course by the time we were done all this it was well past lunch so we returned to the little restaurant we found the day before for more grilled fish, salad and wine. Budget be damned.

It threw us well over what we’re aiming to spend a day but the food was so good. To make it up we’ll wild camp for a week if we have to. Much though we admire Alastair Humphreys (his site was the original inspiration for our own trip), we are just not willing to live on banana sandwiches for four years. We’d rather travel for a shorter time but enjoy a few nice things along the way, especially where food is concerned. By this time the afternoon was slowly ticking away and we thought we’d better get on the road, if we’d any hope of getting anywhere. Of course we chose another mountainous route and climbed a series of hills all the way to the mountain-top village of São Vicente da Beira, passing en route through fields filled with huge glacial boulders and several shepherds out with their flocks. More cobblestones awaited us as we bumped our way into the centre of São Vicente in search of water. We cursed the cobblestones, which make for fairly uncomfortable riding and seem to be in every Portuguese town. Happily we easily found a water fountain to refill our bottles and then we saw a post office. Hurrah! We mailed off a few presents for family that have been in our panniers for far too long and felt quite pleased that we’d finished the last thing on our list. Only a small last climb awaited us and then the treat at the end of the day was gliding along the top of the Serra da Gardunha mountain range before starting our descent towards Fundão. After checking several tracks and trails, we finally found a wild camping spot partway down the mountain. It should make for a nice downhill run to start the day tomorrow!


  1. friedel
    11th April 2007 at 12:43 pm #

    Road notes: We followed the N112 for just a kilometer or so before turning off onto an unmarked road (on our map anyway) via the town of Cafede. When that road ended we turned left onto the N352, which we followed until we stopped for the night. Both backroads were lovely in terms of scenery and fairly light traffic, although they do have a number of hills to keep your legs quivvering! São Vicente is the biggest town en route with a couple mini-markets, a bank and a post office. The climb continues just past São Vicente and then you can relax and enjoy the downhill run.

    What we spent: €23 groceries, €18.50 lunch, €3 internet

  2. Jayme campbell
    11th April 2007 at 8:54 pm #

    Forget the 10,000 kms, look at how toned your legs are! I’m so jealous. You look amazing!

  3. marie
    17th April 2007 at 6:52 am #

    Just checking in to let you know I’m still following your journey and envying every step of the way, every mouthful of delicious foreign grub and every inch of your nicely toned legs!

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