Our grumpy spell gave way today. So many good samaritans helped us out it was impossible not to feel the world was in fact a good place after all. Such are the highs and lows of cycle touring; you never know how your emotions will swing as you tackle the road ahead.
Frustrations from the two previous days were already fading yesterday evening when the three kind men found us a safe place for the night. Throughout the evening the guardian of the orange grove kept coming over to offer us things. Did we have enough blankets? How about a gas lamp for our tent? A cup of tea? There was nothing he didn’t think of but we were very content just to have a little patch of land to sleep on and to watch the chickens from our tent door.
We slept like babies and woke up early to get a head start on the hills. Shiraz sits about 1,600 meters above sea level so we knew there was a good climb waiting for us. Sure enough, we went steadily higher for the better part of 40km and through seven tunnels before the newly constructed road finally reached its peak and granted us a small descent.
The road was reasonably busy but it didn’t pass through many towns so when we reached people selling snacks and drinks by the side of the road we stopped to buy some refreshments and have our lunch. Further encouragement to stop came from two young men on a motorbike. They’d just started following us, bizarrely waving an empty water bottle at us each time they passed. We hoped they’d lose interest and go away while we ate our lunch. We may have been in a better mood overall but our patience with motorbikes remains painfully thin. After a few minutes they sped off and we were happy to see them go.
It was here that our first guardian angels appeared. As we returned to our bikes, two of the merchants insisted on following us. They were friendly and tried to explain but the only thing we could understand through the language gap was the word “stupid” and references to motorbikes. Our instincts said they were suspicious of the young men who’d been on our trail earlier and wanted to make sure we got out of the area without any problems. We didn’t feel threatened and there was a lot of traffic on the road so we would never have been out of sight of passers-by but we accepted their escort nonetheless. All the way to the peak they stayed with us and we really appreciated their help getting through the tunnels.
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Suzdatelstvoto e magichno?Muzhete da pravite vsichko, koeto si pozhelesh?
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