48km Estella to Pamplona

Watch out going up hills!It’s not been the best week for food on our tour! After our oil-spill of a couple days ago, today we woke up to curdled milk. We’ve been trying to work out the best way to carry milk for our morning coffee on the road. We can buy small lunch-box sized cartons of UHT long-life milk but they are expensive, as is powdered milk. Buying a litre of UHT milk is cheaper than the smaller portions, but we don’t use that much in one morning, so for the last little while we’ve decanted the rest into a bottle and carried it with us for the next day. So far it’s worked well but apparently the heat of yesterday was too much for the milk. It curdled as soon as we mixed it in with the coffee.

It’s hard packing up your panniers without a proper wake-up breakfast! Needless to say, the bar was the first stop on our route as soon as we got on the road, not for a beer but for that vital caffeine injection. It’s a good thing we stopped for the extra energy since plenty of hills appeared in front of us as we approached Pamplona. We continued the Pilgrim Count to amuse ourselves as we pedalled away. Today it reached 41 on foot and 3 on bicycles before we got to Pamplona. One group of Germans told us they take two weeks off every year to do a portion of the trail. They’re now in their 10th year and hope that next year they will make it to Santiago.

Once in the city the numbers of pilgrims exploded, unsurprising as the trail runs right through the heart of Pamplona. We wanted to walk around a bit so we joined the pilgrims in the hostel set up for them. Technically it isn’t for mere tourists like ourselves but we told the truth when the receptionist asked if we were going to Santiago or not and he didn’t seem concerned when we said no. Maybe in low-season they are happy to fill the extra beds and for €5 we were happy of a very cheap place to stay. We found a cracking bicycle shop just down the road from the hostel and now we are thinking of replacing our tyres. Decisions, decisions!


  1. andrew
    30th April 2007 at 11:14 am #

    Road notes: We followed the N111, which broadly tracks the A12. Since the new motorway opened there’s hardly any traffic on most of this road. Near Pamplona you do join the A12 for a bit but by this time it is not a motorway and bicycles are allowed on it.

    What we spent: €3.20 coffee and bread, €10 hostel, €16 groceries

  2. golden goose
    19th May 2023 at 10:35 am #

    I would like to convey my love for your kindness supporting those individuals that require guidance on this particular subject matter. Your very own commitment to getting the solution all over had been extremely insightful and has specifically enabled most people just like me to arrive at their desired goals. This warm and helpful help can mean much to me and much more to my fellow workers. With thanks; from everyone of us.

  3. bape
    25th May 2023 at 7:35 pm #

    I would like to show some appreciation to you for rescuing me from this situation. Right after searching through the the web and getting tricks which were not pleasant, I thought my life was done. Being alive minus the answers to the issues you have solved through the short post is a serious case, and the ones that might have adversely affected my entire career if I hadn’t discovered the blog. Your talents and kindness in controlling a lot of things was very useful. I don’t know what I would have done if I hadn’t discovered such a solution like this. I’m able to now relish my future. Thanks a lot very much for this impressive and sensible help. I won’t be reluctant to propose the blog to any person who will need direction about this issue.

Leave a comment