Woke up early to a freezing day, the first time it`s really been cold even inside our tent. We were thankful we decided to buy better sleeping bags before we left, as despite a night with temperatures below freezing, we didn`t feel the cold at all until we crawled out. A good layer of ice covered our tent, from rain early on the previous evening, and our hands froze as our good sense to buy better sleeping bags didn`t follow through to warm gloves! It was too cold to even contemplate making breakfast at the camp site, so we toddled off to a local cafe for breakfast and also to ask directions to the nearest bicycle shop where we could buy gloves. A couple hours later, having filled up on food, checked our emails and warmed our hands, we set off for Koblenz. All the climbing of the last day and a half paid off as we went sharply downhill for at least five of the 20 or so kilometers to Koblenz. Just outside Koblenz, we nearly drove onto an autobahn due to confusing cycle path signs, or rather non existant signs, and were amazed at our ability to make drivers screech to a halt, while screaming at us out of windows to get off the motorway. We quickly obliged, having no desire to be run over by crazy German drivers, and once again found the cycle path. A nice steep climb up to the youth hostel, which is in a fortress overlooking the city, and we were home for the night. We walked into town for one beer, then retired to our room, rather warmer than the night before!